Australian van conversions: lessons & tips for your build!

Heya! Paula and Loic here.

We're kind of excited.

The last screw has just gone into our van's outdoor kitchen.

That means we're officially done with the conversion of our little ford transit camper van. It was a massive process, but we're stoked with what we've built (and learnt).

Both of us started with minimal skills and a slight addiction to "van tour" videos. We figured it's possible to build something ourselves.

Time to show off what we've built and help you do the same!

This post is filled with the tips and tricks we picked up over the last 3 years. It should also help you avoid common 'rookie' mistakes. The post is broken down into chapters so you can get to the goodies most relevant to you.

We hope this serves as a good starting point.

If you haven't been sent here from my Youtube channel. This is the van tour video, with a FAQs segment.

Our VehicleLink to section

I was originally looking for a "high top, short wheelbase" Mercedes Sprinter, but they were too pricey for my uni student budget. We had to settle for something less fancy.

After a heap of hunting, we purchased the vehicle for A$8,200 at an online auction site around Christmas 2018. It wasn't the exact model I initially wanted, but the price was too good to pass. The same vehicle would have cost me A$15,000 from a dealer.

I knew we were going to be stealth camping a fair bit. So the vehicle needed to fit in a normal car park, have minimal windows and be larger than a Toyota Hiace. The high roof was a "nice to have", but not essential for our use case. The comments section of social media roasted us for that decision... but we stand by it. You van has to work for you!

We ended up with:

• Ford Transit 2010 (Mid Roof, Mid Wheel Base)
• 190,000km odometer reading
• 2.4L Turbo Diesel
• Minimal windows
• Manual

I went to inspect it at the lot and it ran beautifully. The mechanic told me it was in good condition even though there was no service logbook.

Purchasing this vehicle was a calculated risk, but it worked out well.

Since owning it we've done regular services and only had issues with a small leak in the fuel tank. A$500 fix for A$6000+ savings.

Our ConversionLink to section

Now that we had the keys to the van, we had to:

1. Name it. We chose 'Migaloo' after the famous albino humpback whale
2. Figure out the what we needed in a weekend warrior build out.

We wanted a versatile van. Something that could be used for weekend missions as well as month long trips. These key features were the non-negotiables:

• A bullet proof electrical system. Capable of running the fridge 24/7.
• Spacious outdoor kitchen, with a smaller indoor backup bench.
• Stealth-ish exterior for discreet city camping.
• A comfortable place to hang out.
• Sleep two, seating for three.
• Running water & cold shower.
• Good insulation & airflow.
• Storage for all the toys.

Cleaning and RustproofingLink to section

If you're using a second hand van like we are, it is going to need a bit of love before you can start building.

The van we bought got was previously owned by an electrical company. We think they abandoned the her under sketchy circumstances. The vehicle had been left at the auctioneer's depot completely full of solar electrical equipment. A lot of it was still in good condition, so I was able to sell some of it. There was also a lot of trash to get rid of.

But there was still A LOT of crap that needed to be removed. The local dump charged $80 to empty it.

From there we could peel back the layers of oils, grime, and muck to discover the the bones of the vehicle.

Thankfully, one emptied it was a mostly good shell!

I chose to fix anything mildly suspected using a combination of sanding paper, chemicals, primers and paint.

For five days the mantra was; "Clean, sand, clean, prime, sand, paint."

It's a tedious job, but if you're about to slap together a A$20,000+ build, you probably want it to last. Everyone has their own secret potion, and I don't think mine is the best.

Rust prevention is a dark art. I've added the products I used, but do your own research.

This is more of a reminder to take it seriously.

Now, with an empty and clean shell - the fun stuff can begin!

InsulationLink to section

Australian vans generally require less insulation than the winter-proof builds of North America and Europe.

There are many styles of van insulation. I quite liked the multi-staged system that Car Builders advertise. It's just so damn expensive! You end up buying the convenience and branding.

You can get the same materials muuuuuuuch cheaper if you're happy source generic brands.

I settled with a three layer insulation system (in the diagram below) using generic versions of the same products. No complaints with how it worked out. We’ll use something similar for any future builds.

Layer 1 – Butyl Sound Deadening SheetsLink to section

The first layer of the insulation sandwich is an aluminium backed butyl sheet that you stick directly to the inner surface of your van's metal sheeting. The main purpose is to minimise vibrations. It makes driving a lot more quiet. Same too with dampening the sounds when sleeping next to busy roads. They work a treat!

The user manual will say to cover the whole inner van surface. Appropriate for the engine area and driver cabin, but don't bother covering the whole the back of the van. I reckon 20% of the recommended coverage will get you 80% of the results without weighing own your van.

I suggest one large sheet per exposed "panel" of your van and then as much as you can fit in the awkward nooks and crannies. Most important areas to cover are the floor and wheel wells. Full coverage is still a good option in those areas.

Again, no need to buy the brand names for this material.

A search for "butyl sheets, sound deadening" will return a bunch of results that are much cheaper than the white labelled stuff. It's all the same stuff. If you can wait for slower freight and have a large van you can get it even cheaper in bulk off Alibaba, Aliexpress and even Temu.

Layer 2 – Aluminum-backed Sticky FoamLink to section

The second layers is an adhesive closed cell foam layer (about 1-2cm thick) with some aluminium backing. It creates a reflective barrier that kills even more sound. It also serves as the first insulation layer.

This is the layer that does most of the work. Use this over the whole inside of the van. No bare metal should be visible after this step.

Putting insulation tape at the junction where a two foam panels meet each other is a good idea. Don't cut corners here.

Layer 3 – Foam LinerLink to section

Depending on how you plan to build your van, it would be wise to add a third layer of foam on the inner surface of your ceiling and walls. This creates an air gap which really helps keep inside temperatures consistent.

This layer is similar to "Layer 2", but it can be thinner and you don't need the metal backing. Usually ends up slightly cheaper.

Layer 4 – Window CoversLink to section

The final piece of the insulation puzzle is reducing thermal exchange though the windows. This blackout blinds also act as a final insulation layer.

A lot of tutorials online will show you how to build these. But I have the luxury of having a mother who's a weapon with a sewing machine. Here is how she made them:

1. Make cardboard template for each windows
2. Use template to shape and cut a layer of reflective insulation ('reflectix') later.
3. Use template to cut out two mirrored pieces of thick 'blackout' material.
4. Line up and glue material to insulation.
5. Use binding/hemming material to create clean edges. We added quite a large "flap" around the edged to hide some neodymium magnets. This makes a frill around the circumference of the window cover whick locks it into place and blocks out all the light.

If you don't know how to sew (and your mum can't help you) there are a few small businesses that sell custom made blinds. Fair warning, a lot of labour goes into these, so they are a tad pricey.

Easily worth it in my books, but your wallet can be the judge of that. I like the van window blinds these folks make. 🦘

FloorLink to section

SubfloorLink to section

We initially used cheap varnished plywood to do the subfloor of the van. Mistake!

Plywood is heavy and not great at insulating the floor of the van. It's also a lot more work.

The folks at Vanable Fitouts who recommended we use a dense foam board instead. So we did.

We ripped out the plywood floor and replaced it with closed cell "foam core" (XPS foam). In Australia this material is sold in large but reasonably light sheets, commonly 1200x600x20-30mm. The sheets are easy to cut and install with only a jigsaw and some patience.

Benefits of XPS foam include:

• light
• insulating
• waterproof
• easier to work with

I haven't been able to find a way for "consumers" to get this material in Australia. Seem like most companies only supply to other businesses. You're going to have to hunt around to find the right stuff. I'm sure it won't be an issue in the cities, but it might be a struggle if you're out Woop Woop.

Make sure you get the strongest foam board you can and test it will take your weight (high compressibility). Should cost you about A$30-50 per sheet.

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If you have trouble finding foam and end up choosing to use a plywood floor make sure to get marine grade ply so it doesn't start rotting and getting mouldy from condensation. Give it a few layers of water based sealant to help it last!

Don't use chipboard or MDF. Both expand with the slightest moisture and will not last more than a couple years. I've seen a couple beautiful builds destroyed within 6 months of completion when using these materials.

FlooringLink to section

We used hardwood laminate flooring from Bunnings. Another mistake.

We kept it, because it looked nice and was done, but we won't use it again. It was expensive and far too heavy. I do not recommend copying us.

Most folks choose interlocking vinyl flooring. It's sold under a bunch of different brand names. I'll be using on future builds.

Vinyl flooring is better because it is:

• light
• pretty
• cheap
• resistant
• water proof
• easy to replace

A textured rubber mat is a good option too if you're worried about high use areas like the garages or steps. It's easy to install and pretty cost effective too.

The diagram below shows the floor layers we ended up with.

Furniture LayoutLink to section

Our van is small, so we had to make the layout efficient.

A lot of time was spent measuring our gear; containers, surfboards, stoves climbing gear etc.. We wanted to make sure it would all have neat spot to go.

With the constrains in mind, the planning started on paper, then as sketches on the iPad.

My hand drawings where an absolute mess, but they helped me structure and prioritise design decisions.

Once I had a rough idea of the layout I moved to building it in CAD software (Sketchup). This was essential in making sure my ideas would fit 'in the real world'. Seeing it all to scale and in 3D was (and exciting).

As you start your build, you'll discover that building furniture for the weird shapes and angles of a van can seriously complicate your plans. I recommend you simplify the inner volume of the van to a simple rectangular prism with fixed (and square) dimensions. Plan your interior around those measurements. Then break it down again into separate furniture modules.

Breaking down the problem into smaller pieces makes it a lot more manageable. You can see from the gif below, that I planned the design around the bed. In order of importance, here are the furniture modules we designed and built:

1. Main bed box: able to accommodate the storage boxes and fit a 2m person without their toes hanging over the edge of the bed.
2. Surfboard box: sized to fit surf quiver
3. Outdoor Kitchen Box: sized to fit stove and largest wooden spoon stove.
4. Indoor Kitchen Cabinets: to fit fridge and take up the remaining space
5. Couch backing box: to fit width of permanent bed.
6. Overhead storage to take up all usable space.

Build MaterialsLink to section

We built all of our furniture with 16mm laminated backed plywood sheets. It is also known as melamine plywood. This stuff is awesome.

It can be a little tricky to find on short notice and isn't often stocked in common hardware stores. There are a few suppliers around, but it's not a super common product and can take a while to ship in small quantities – so plan ahead of your needs!

This material is very easy to work with. Easy to cut, consistent dimensions and it's thick enough that you can make a "butt joint" without your screws splintering and pulling through. Pocket hole joints are also really easy compared to poor quality plywood.

We also loved that the melamine backing comes in different colours and helps make it look polished without needing any finishing. Avoiding any varnish or paint is a massive time saver.

The downside is that it's a little heavy. We needed to cut "swiss cheese" holes in large pieces to keep weight down. If you're strategic you should be able to remove ~40% of the material without significant structural losses.

Electrical SystemLink to section

A van's electrical system can be summarised as having three main parts:

1. Power Supply
2. Power storage
3. Power usage

Power Supply and StorageLink to section

The van's power supply was an important part of the build for us. We wanted to harvest enough electrons without ever having to rely on 'mains' power.

We decided to get the supply and storage parts of the electrical system installed and checked by a professional. We hired Glen from 12 Volt Guy who built us a reliable system.

It is a weapon! Flat batteries and 'charge anxiety' are not something we've had to deal with.

Under normal use, we produce far more power than you could use in a day.

The house battery is automatically charged from the solar panels and/or alternator when the engine is running. This keeps the fridge running non-stop and has more than enough juice to charge phones, laptops and cameras without issue. The loads were all matched to adequate sized wires, and re ran a few extra cables throughout the van in case we needed them in the futures.

This system hasn't skipped a beat. But of course, there are some limitations with such a simple system.

Mainly, we can't use 240v appliances, nor can we plug into 'mains' at a campground. We left enough space on the electrical panel to fit an inverter in the future, but we've never needed it. Hard to justify the cost and complexity of a 240v systems you'll never use...

Power UsageLink to section

With the power capture and storage system sorted, we can move our attention to how we're going to use that energy!

We planned the lighting and electrical loads alongside the furniture layout to ensure everything would work together as a functional living space. This was a messy and frustrating process. You end up with a 'chicken and the egg' problem as you figure out the layout at the same time as the electrical load routing thorughout the van.

I have about a million of these sketches, but this one best represents the final electrical layout.

Most electrical components throughout the van are standard, but two decisions might be interesting to you:

• Independent lighting control: We split the lighting into different sections, each with its own switches and dimmers. This means someone can read in bed with dim lighting while another person works at the indoor bench with bright task lighting.
• Flexible charging setup: Rather than hardwiring specific USB ports, we installed several 12V cigarette lighter outlets. From there can add typical car chargers with the ports and power level you require. It's a lot more flexible and means you're not locked into a specific connection type (USB-A, USB-C, PowerDelivery etc...)

The rest of this section is just highlighting some of the products that I've used in the van build. It should help you with some key words to guide your own research.

PlumbingLink to section

We kept our water system simple and cost effective. The core of our setup is a custom built 50L freshwater tank, a 12V pump and small gray water tank.

Internal space is at a premium so we put the tanks under the van. We also don't do any serious off-roading where the tanks are likely to get damaged.

We went under the van to figure out the maximum lengths of pips we could fit. Then cut the 100mm PVC pipes to length and closed the "tanks" by slapping on a push on caps on either ends of the pipes (with PVC cement).

The individual tanks were linked with flexible pipes (food grade) to passively balance the water between the tanks. Because of this, there is only one outlet that connects to the pump.

The pump moves water the the sink and then drains into a small grey water tank. It was made with the same method as the water storage tanks, but is much smaller in volume (about 1/3). The used water is only ever held when camping in public zones or if the water is gross. Most of the time we leave the ball valve open so used water flows out and onto the grass below.

The indoor sink and the outside outlet for the shower run off the same pump.

Products ListLink to section

A couple people asked for a list of products we used to build the van. Most of the major purchases are listed below, but also included some products we needed but didn't have the 'keywords' to find them. Had no idea what Butyl was before the build. Maybe it'll help you find stuff quicker...

I don't make any money off these links. Just listing because it might be of help sourcing van conversion equipment in Australia.

Wrap upLink to section

Whether you're planning weekend adventures or full-time van life, we hope these insights help you create your perfect home on wheels. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions – we love helping fellow van builders!

Safe travels! 🚐✨